Mouse Test
A free online mouse test. Click each button, scroll up and down, and try your side buttons — every working part lights up on the diagram. Spot a dead button, a flaky scroll wheel, or a double-click fault in seconds. Then test your speed with the CPS test or check your polling rate.
Click every button, scroll up and down, and try your side buttons. Each part lights up when it works.
What the mouse test checks
The tool verifies every input on a standard mouse: the left, right, and middle (scroll-wheel) buttons, scrolling up and down, and the two side buttons (back and forward). Each press lights its region on the diagram and increments a counter, so you can confirm a button works — or catch one that doesn't register at all.
It also watches for the classic double-click defect: when a single press registers as two clicks because the switch is worn. If two left-clicks land within 80 ms, the tool warns you. A failing button isn't always the mouse — try another USB port, a different browser, or fresh batteries first. If it still fails, it's time to repair or replace.
Why mice double-click — and how to read this test
Most people land here because of one symptom: a single click that suddenly counts as two. The table below maps each part of the test to what it's checking and the usual culprit when it fails.
| Part | What it checks | Common cause when it fails |
|---|---|---|
| Left button | Single, repeated, and double clicks | Two clicks per press = worn switch (double-click fault). |
| Right button | Context / secondary click | No light = dead switch or a remapped button. |
| Middle (wheel) button | Wheel press / middle click | No light = stiff wheel switch or driver capturing it. |
| Scroll up / down | Wheel rotation both ways | Skips or jumps = dirty or failing scroll encoder. |
| Side buttons (back / forward) | Thumb buttons 4 & 5 | No light = unbound macro, or the button isn't sending a standard event. |
What causes the double-click fault
Every mouse switch has a tiny metal contact that springs back after a press. Over millions of clicks that contact wears and starts to 'bounce' — briefly making and breaking the circuit on a single press. The mouse's firmware is supposed to debounce that bounce; when the contact degrades past what the debounce window covers, one physical click reports as two. That's the fault this test flags at the 80 ms threshold.
Rule out everything but the mouse first
Before you blame the hardware, swap the variables: a different USB port (front-panel ports are often flaky), a different browser, and — for wireless — fresh batteries or a re-pair. Side buttons bound to driver macros may not fire a standard event at all, so a dark side-button region can be software, not a dead switch.
Test the rest of the mouse too
Buttons are only half the story. If the wheel feels notchy or skips, the scroll test isolates the scroll encoder. If your cursor feels laggy in games, the polling rate test checks whether the mouse actually reports at its rated Hz. Together the three pages give a full health check.
Mouse checks out? Put it to work — measure your clicking speed on the CPS test or your flick accuracy in the aim trainer.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How does the mouse test work?
The test pad listens for every mouse input — left, right, and middle clicks, the scroll wheel, and the back/forward side buttons. When a button works, its region on the mouse diagram lights up and its counter goes up. If a part never lights up, that button likely has a fault.
Can it detect a double-click problem?
Yes. If two left-clicks register within 80 ms of each other — faster than a human can intentionally click — we flag a possible hardware double-click fault. This is the most common defect on worn mice, where one press registers as two.
Does it work with wireless and Bluetooth mice?
Yes. The test reads input from your operating system, so it doesn't matter whether your mouse is wired, wireless, or Bluetooth. It also works with laptop trackpads, though side buttons and the scroll wheel may not apply there.
A button doesn't light up — is my mouse broken?
Not necessarily. First try a different USB port or a different browser, and for wireless mice replace the batteries. Some side buttons are bound to software macros and won't send a standard button event. If it still fails after that, the button is likely worn out.
How do I fix a double-clicking mouse?
If it's under warranty, claim it — a double-click fault is a hardware defect. Otherwise, blowing compressed air into the switch sometimes clears debris, and confident users re-tension or replace the micro-switch. Lowering the in-game or OS double-click speed only masks it. Once you've confirmed the buttons, check the wheel on the scroll test and report rate on the polling rate test.